Which bearing for 3.23 Gu5 axles?

Hi all,

I'm replacing the front wheel bearings (I've got a clunk I'm trying to isolate pretty sure it's in the front as it only happens at low speed and while turning) and decided to look up the rear bearings just in case the clunk is there.

I've got a 1993 Roady with the 3.23 Posi rear. The bearings on Rockauto show as the options "Wagon w/o 3.23" but they don't show the one that will fit!

If one of you has the part no. or the dimensions of the bearing that'd be great. It'd be a shame to have to sideline the car for a week just to pull axles, measure, order bearings, get the wrong ones, measure again, argue with the parts guy, get the right ones then install and drive away.

Here's hoping I don't need them (nor new axles) but I'd like to know what the heck to order.

Thanks!

The 3.23 does not have different bearings than the others. The wagon rear bearings are larger than the sedan, but the front is the same. I believe the RA description is in error. You can get bearings almost anywhere, but stay away from the Chinese ones. Timkin bearings are good.

If the rear axles need bearings, they also need axles, and seals.

^ Or saver bearings.

That's a relief! I knew the wagon bearings were larger, but I couldn't fathom GM making another axle/tube for a specific ratio.

Thanks!

If you decide to get new axles, you can get excellent ones from Moser (http://www.moserengineering.com/axles/10-bolt-30-spline-fits-1991-96-impala-w-disc-brakes.html but you must custom order them for the length, and bearing diameter. You can get the bearings from them as well (separate order).
Specs for the Moser custom axle form:
1. TYPE OF REAREND - choose (10 bolt 8.5")
2. BEARING SEAT DIAMETER - choose (1.618")
3. DRIVER SIDE "C" (OVERALL AXLE LENGTH) - fill in (31.8")
3. PASSENGER SIDE "C" (OVERALL AXLE LENGTH) - fill in (31.8")
4. HUB PILOT ("A") fill in (3.060")
5. BOLT CIRCLE - choose (5 X 5" (CHEVY, FORD))
6. STUD TYPE (does not include studs, must order separately) - choose (.505" Knurl Press-In)
7. 2ND BOLT CIRCLE (IF NECESSARY) - choose (none)
8. AXLE FLANGE DIAMETER ("J") - 6 9/16 inch
9. TYPE OF BRAKES/MANUFACTURES PART NUMBER - (drum brakes)
10. TYPE OF DIFFERENTIAL/MANUFACTURE - (auburn limited slip)

-the following fields are optional and I left them blank.
11. AXLE FLANGE TO AXLE FLANGE ("D")
12. HOUSING END TO HOUSING END ("E")
13. DRIVER SIDE HOUSING END TO PINION CENTER ("F") (DO NOT measure through the tubes)
14. PASSENGER SIDE HOUSING END TO PINION CENTER ("G") (DO NOT measure through the tubes)

Hmmmm interesting. Thanks for those axle specs.

my 2cents:

Even if the axle is scored you probably can still use it. I have replaced bearings on 4 wagons and reused the scored axle with no issues. Mind you they weren't like really deep or anything, but you could feel the ridge.

My experience with saver bearings is they suck. bought one wagon that had one when I bought it, had to replace 25K into ownership and the bearing had 30K on it. The other I bought and it starting leaking after 500 miles. In both cases went back to OE spec bearings and no more worries

I just bought a pair of Moser axles for the rear I am building. $295 plus $39.91 shipping.

I have a pair of nice OEM axles with no noticeable wear on them for sale.

You ordered axles with the specs above?

Let us know how they fit/work out. That sounds like a completely reasonable price for custom axles IMO.

Moser axles are not all that expensive, and are race quality. The Chinese/Indian axles at NAPA or other parts stores are $140-150 each. Rock Auto has Dana (made to their specs) axles for about $61 plus $10 shipping, but I assume they are foreign made from looking at the pictures. Mosers are made in the US.

If you have a 91-93, the foreign made axles will probably work, but who knows how long the bearing surface will hold up. If you are making some serious HP, or using drag slicks, you might consider the Mosers.

If you are going after used axles, the left one is usually in better condition than the right, although the ones that came out of the rear I am building are both in excellent condition.

will the 91-93 323 rear bolt into the 94-96 wagons? Considering a used axle to refurb and swap. Should provide a little more pep than the 2.93 I have now. Will be calling yards when I get a little time.

Yes. Direct swap. When we built my rear end, I actually gave my 3.23 axle to my friend with his 94 RMW and we put it in that car. Woke it up A LOT compared to the peg leg 2.56 he had before. You will need to get the PCM retuned to take advantage of the gears - your shift points will be wonky without it.

Then we built his rear and put it in my car.

I have a 3.23 posi rear from my 91 OCC for sale. It had the axles replaced about 30K ago. $350 plus shipping, or if you know someone coming to FL that would haul it for you. The axle replacement cost me more than that.

may be going to look at a parts car. Has g80=posi, but what is the code for 3.23 ratio? I have a blurry pic of the sticker.

GU5

Thanks GU5 is on the sticker. Hope to reach an agreement.

You should still check the axles, bearing and seals. If it has more than 150K on the clock, the right axle may need replacement, including the bearing.

I presume I could use 2 left axles (one from my current 125K 96 wagon) and one from the donor wagon, milage unknown, to have 2 good axles. I hope if I get it to have time to go through it and service what needs service before install. The donor car has no title, can not be driven, what would be a reasonable price for the axle as is ?

You can use any wagon axle from either side to make a good pair. Change the bearing and seal on the right side if you put another axle in. 

The whole axle, drum to drum, from a P-N-P junk yard with a core charge is about $175+tax. Privately I would give $100, but expect to remove it yourself. You will probably have to cut the E-brake cables, and the hose on top of the rear. That, or leave the brakes on the car, and bolt yours to the axle. You must remove the axles to take the backing plates off, and that will allow you to inspect the axles. It also makes it lighter to lift and move.

I would replace the bushings on the arms and top of the rear while it is out.

No deal
He wanted $600 for the axle
complete waste of time

Some people think their **** is make of gold. Be happy you walked away. You can have a complete new built rear for between $700 to $1000 if you do it yourself. Moser currently has an on line only 12% discount sale until Cyber Monday. Now is the time to get your Christmas present from your wife or significant other.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

I have a 3.23 posi rear from my 91 OCC for sale. It had the axles replaced about 30K ago. $350 plus shipping, or if you know someone coming to FL that would haul it for you. The axle replacement cost me more than that.

Do you still have the rear for sale?

No it is spoken for.

Thank you.